Difference between revisions of "2004 Trailblazer LT 4.2L L6"

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(Steering Wheel Loose Rubber Fix)
(Transmission)
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O well.  The Tranny was having shift problems when I got it and the dealer lied to me about how many miles were on the Tranny.
 
O well.  The Tranny was having shift problems when I got it and the dealer lied to me about how many miles were on the Tranny.
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=Fuel Regulator=
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Car running like garbage?  At least notice something?
 +
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Replace the fuel regulator, and the rubber boots on the hard line going to the pre vacuum source putting vacuum on it.  Also put clamps on the tube going to the crank shaft vent tube from the air box.
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*http://gmtnation.com/forums/topic/11287-buckingchugging-not-hard-on-cruise-control-downhill-around-70mph-2004-chevy-trailblazer-lt/
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My transmission was shifting weird, and cruise control did not work exactly as advertised...this fixed it...the thing runs completely different.
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==Shift Cable Repair==
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*http://www.bushingfix.com/chevrolet-trailblazer-shift-cable-bushing-repair-kit/
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*http://www.atfspeed.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=21_210&products_id=568&zenid=ge6hg84g1us4795a5evd5sbeg4
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==DIY Transmission Flush==
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*http://forums.trailvoy.com/articles.php?do=viewarticle&artid=88
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You have to be careful doing this...look at threads where people are burning up their transmission.
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=Steering Wheel Controls=
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*http://forums.trailvoy.com/showthread.php?t=39575
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Looks like you can put them on
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=Sway bar links and bushings=
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Well I put on a full set of MAXX END LINKS just before I went on vac to NC and drove down and back and around the mountain roads must of put on about 1800 miles and the didn’t beleave how different the TB drove!!!! A must do for anyone! Eddie!
 +
 +
http://forums.trailvoy.com/showthread.php?t=37348&page=3
 +
 +
Change sway bar links and bushings.
 +
 +
MOOG has blue hard rubber bushings that seem cool.

Revision as of 10:06, 4 November 2014

Sensor Locations

Secondary Air Injection

  • for now:
  1. wait for your car to be "cold" or 4 hours. Disconnect the hose from check valve (located passenger side--the transmission dip stick is attached to the bolts that hold it to the block). Start the truck, you should hear a nasty sound for about 30 seconds to a minute. If you don't its your check valve.
  2. If it is your check valve, you can try to clean it. Get some throttle body cleaner, remove the check valve spray thouroughly (I did it a couple of times to get all the carbon and rust out) and let dry reinstall and follow above instructions. If no go replace check valve
  1. wait for your car to be "cold" or 4 hours. remove the fattest hose from the underside of air intake hose (I think thats where it is, I have a CAI so Its hard to know where it is exactly OEM) and from the check valve. Have someone else start the truck. Feel the hoses, you should feel sucking and blowing (I can't remember which is supposed to blow / suck) If you don't feel anything then its the pump (maybe -- read further)
  2. check fuses there are about 3 in the manual listed for air pump (if bad fuse replace and retest, make sure to check the fuses after to make sure that the pump isnt blowing fuses)
  3. Locate the air pump its driver side mid car just behind the cross member for the frame. There are two wiring harnesess one that goes into the relay (grey box) and one that has two fat wires (thats the power plug for the pump.) disconnect that one, wait for cold start and start truck while having a multimeter attached set on DC mode. If you get a reading of 0 then replace the relay. if you get power 12-15 volts replace the motor.
  4. If both the check valve and the pump are testing out ok it could be a clogged hose.

Camshaft Position Actuator Solenoid Cleaning

Putting an AMP in

Throttle Body

Blower Motor Resistor

Recalibrate Vent Actuators

  • Disconnect the Battery for a while
  • Make sure all vent stuff is off
  • Turn car on, let sit for 60 seconds at least

or

36 HVAC B
39 HVAC 1
44 HVAC

Start car, leave on for one min.

Clean Sending Unit

Use alot of this at once: Chevron 65740 Techron Concentrate

Replace Dash Stepper Motors

This is where I got mine:

They work great

Replace Thermostat and Temp Sensor

I do not think I should have done the temp sensor...what a pita. Some people say go through the wheel well. I did not and it seems like it would have been easier through the wheel well. But then some people say it is harder. You will have to find those instructions.


Doing by taking the alternator off:

Fuel Filter

Brakes Soft, Pedal Travel

Sounds funny but, I had new brake fluid put in, did some other stuff. I had to engage the ABS on a dirt/sand road and the pedal firmed right up.

  • Some Issue: I wouldnt ever push the brake fluid back thru the master cylinder. It will mess up the ABS. I dont know the exact reason but every vehicle that I've seen with that done the ABS will throw a code and act funny. Best thing to do it crack the bleeder when re-seating the pistons back. Other than that, I dont have a fix for ya.

Quote:

After a LOT of researching, I decided that the ABS system needed to be cycled. Not necessarily bled, as there should be no air in the system, but at least cycled in order to undo whatever I did to it when I back-pressed the caliper pistons.

After more digging, I discovered I had two choices: I could take it to a dealer and have them "bleed" the ABS according to the shop manual's process using their Scan Tool. Our local dealers want a hundred bucks just to hook the Scan Tool up!

Other choice was to force the ABS to cycle itself, and hope that would reset it. It was worth a try, and if it didn't work there was still the dealer.

Following the instructions I found, I took the truck out to a loose-gravel road (just a quarter mile from home, out here in the countryside). Starting cautiously, I got up to a blistering 10 mph and stomped the brake pedal hard as I could. With all my strength, I was able to get just a half-dozen barks out of the ABS. But that was enough. The second time, the brakes applied a little harder and the ABS barked a little more. Each time, I could go a little faster and hit the brakes a little harder.

A couple dozen repeats of this, speed up to 50 mph near the end, was probably over-kill. But that fixed it!

I gave it one more bleed to be sure, and there was no air in the system. So after I made the mistake of pressing the fluid backwards through the system, I just needed to "reset" the ABS by forcing it to cycle itself. (I don't think the new master cylinder was a bad idea, either.)

So thanks, Donut Slayer! Your comment got me on the right track. And I'll never back-push the fluid in an ABS system again. Open the bleeder and press it out into a container.

End Quote

Basically same as above:

Remote Key / FOB Relearn

Installing GPS and feeding it with On-Star Wire

Cannot remember exactly which wire but I spliced into the onstar mirror control. There where two wires feeding 12 power to it and its associated circuitry.

Steering Wheel Loose Rubber Fix

This stuff works great! I used it, be careful with the needle. It is called SLT99 Steering Wheel Bonder. It will leave bumps so do it well.

I purchased the SLT99 Steering Wheel Bonder Kit. It comes from Australia so it takes a bit. The aussies always have cools stuff. Same country that I got the rack boots from. Universal power steering rack boots. Made it easy.

Password Entry

They do not have a FOB with a password on it. You have to install a unit in the car, and the wireless fob integrates with that.

Transmission

I did a lot of stuff trying to fix my transmission. I replaced solenoids, and a accumulator piston. NEVER TOUCH A TRANNY UNLESS YOU WANT TO REBUILD IT. I ended up purchasing a new transmission from rockauto. Best thing ever. EM REMAN / TRANSMISSION AUTHORITY rebuilt tranny with all the little fixes they are supposed to have over the years. The thing works great and has a 100,000 mile warranty.

I mean, replace a Solenoid...if a code says its bad...but I would never do anything else. I swapped fluid at the same time as the solenoids and Accumulator Piston. It worked for about 1000 miles and something fucked up.

You read and read and read...people talked about replacing pistons like they are nothing. What they do not tell you is that the piston cover has a paper gasket that is huge and part of the tranny really. When you take it off, you rip and mess the gasket up. What a mess. Never again.

O well. The Tranny was having shift problems when I got it and the dealer lied to me about how many miles were on the Tranny.


Fuel Regulator

Car running like garbage? At least notice something?

Replace the fuel regulator, and the rubber boots on the hard line going to the pre vacuum source putting vacuum on it. Also put clamps on the tube going to the crank shaft vent tube from the air box.

My transmission was shifting weird, and cruise control did not work exactly as advertised...this fixed it...the thing runs completely different.

Shift Cable Repair

DIY Transmission Flush

You have to be careful doing this...look at threads where people are burning up their transmission.

Steering Wheel Controls

Looks like you can put them on

Sway bar links and bushings

Well I put on a full set of MAXX END LINKS just before I went on vac to NC and drove down and back and around the mountain roads must of put on about 1800 miles and the didn’t beleave how different the TB drove!!!! A must do for anyone! Eddie!

http://forums.trailvoy.com/showthread.php?t=37348&page=3

Change sway bar links and bushings.

MOOG has blue hard rubber bushings that seem cool.