Difference between revisions of "2004 Trailblazer LT 4.2L L6"

From Hack Sphere Labs Wiki
Jump to: navigation, search
(→‎Front Differential Fluid Change)
Line 233: Line 233:
 
*https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5XP7v3ezv-0
 
*https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5XP7v3ezv-0
 
I do not have a drain plug.  I have to take bolts out, etc.  I do not know, I would still take the entire rear pan off..even though this guy says that it stupid.  I would want to put a new gasket on.  I cannot have this thing leaking.
 
I do not have a drain plug.  I have to take bolts out, etc.  I do not know, I would still take the entire rear pan off..even though this guy says that it stupid.  I would want to put a new gasket on.  I cannot have this thing leaking.
 +
 +
=Fuel Injector Cleaning=
 +
*http://cleaninginjector.com/
 +
*http://www.pcfi-longisland.com/#!gallery/c161y
 +
**http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Baw_29n5vbM
 +
==DIY==
 +
*http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7aT4S1lIBAY
 +
 +
=Stop Rust=
 +
*POR-15

Revision as of 06:35, 5 November 2014

Sensor Locations

Secondary Air Injection

  • for now:
  1. wait for your car to be "cold" or 4 hours. Disconnect the hose from check valve (located passenger side--the transmission dip stick is attached to the bolts that hold it to the block). Start the truck, you should hear a nasty sound for about 30 seconds to a minute. If you don't its your check valve.
  2. If it is your check valve, you can try to clean it. Get some throttle body cleaner, remove the check valve spray thouroughly (I did it a couple of times to get all the carbon and rust out) and let dry reinstall and follow above instructions. If no go replace check valve
  1. wait for your car to be "cold" or 4 hours. remove the fattest hose from the underside of air intake hose (I think thats where it is, I have a CAI so Its hard to know where it is exactly OEM) and from the check valve. Have someone else start the truck. Feel the hoses, you should feel sucking and blowing (I can't remember which is supposed to blow / suck) If you don't feel anything then its the pump (maybe -- read further)
  2. check fuses there are about 3 in the manual listed for air pump (if bad fuse replace and retest, make sure to check the fuses after to make sure that the pump isnt blowing fuses)
  3. Locate the air pump its driver side mid car just behind the cross member for the frame. There are two wiring harnesess one that goes into the relay (grey box) and one that has two fat wires (thats the power plug for the pump.) disconnect that one, wait for cold start and start truck while having a multimeter attached set on DC mode. If you get a reading of 0 then replace the relay. if you get power 12-15 volts replace the motor.
  4. If both the check valve and the pump are testing out ok it could be a clogged hose.

Camshaft Position Actuator Solenoid Cleaning

Putting an AMP in

Throttle Body

Blower Motor Resistor

Recalibrate Vent Actuators

  • Disconnect the Battery for a while
  • Make sure all vent stuff is off
  • Turn car on, let sit for 60 seconds at least

or 

36 HVAC B
39 HVAC 1
44 HVAC

Start car, leave on for one min.

Clean Sending Unit

Use alot of this at once: Chevron 65740 Techron Concentrate

Replace Dash Stepper Motors

This is where I got mine:

They work great

Replace Thermostat and Temp Sensor

I do not think I should have done the temp sensor...what a pita. Some people say go through the wheel well. I did not and it seems like it would have been easier through the wheel well. But then some people say it is harder. You will have to find those instructions.


Doing by taking the alternator off:

Fuel Filter

Brakes Soft, Pedal Travel

Sounds funny but, I had new brake fluid put in, did some other stuff. I had to engage the ABS on a dirt/sand road and the pedal firmed right up.

  • Some Issue: I wouldnt ever push the brake fluid back thru the master cylinder. It will mess up the ABS. I dont know the exact reason but every vehicle that I've seen with that done the ABS will throw a code and act funny. Best thing to do it crack the bleeder when re-seating the pistons back. Other than that, I dont have a fix for ya.

Quote:

After a LOT of researching, I decided that the ABS system needed to be cycled. Not necessarily bled, as there should be no air in the system, but at least cycled in order to undo whatever I did to it when I back-pressed the caliper pistons.

After more digging, I discovered I had two choices: I could take it to a dealer and have them "bleed" the ABS according to the shop manual's process using their Scan Tool. Our local dealers want a hundred bucks just to hook the Scan Tool up!

Other choice was to force the ABS to cycle itself, and hope that would reset it. It was worth a try, and if it didn't work there was still the dealer.

Following the instructions I found, I took the truck out to a loose-gravel road (just a quarter mile from home, out here in the countryside). Starting cautiously, I got up to a blistering 10 mph and stomped the brake pedal hard as I could. With all my strength, I was able to get just a half-dozen barks out of the ABS. But that was enough. The second time, the brakes applied a little harder and the ABS barked a little more. Each time, I could go a little faster and hit the brakes a little harder.

A couple dozen repeats of this, speed up to 50 mph near the end, was probably over-kill. But that fixed it!

I gave it one more bleed to be sure, and there was no air in the system. So after I made the mistake of pressing the fluid backwards through the system, I just needed to "reset" the ABS by forcing it to cycle itself. (I don't think the new master cylinder was a bad idea, either.)

So thanks, Donut Slayer! Your comment got me on the right track. And I'll never back-push the fluid in an ABS system again. Open the bleeder and press it out into a container.

End Quote

Basically same as above:

Remote Key / FOB Relearn

Installing GPS and feeding it with On-Star Wire

Cannot remember exactly which wire but I spliced into the onstar mirror control. There where two wires feeding 12 power to it and its associated circuitry.

Steering Wheel Loose Rubber Fix

This stuff works great! I used it, be careful with the needle. It is called SLT99 Steering Wheel Bonder. It will leave bumps so do it well.

I purchased the SLT99 Steering Wheel Bonder Kit. It comes from Australia so it takes a bit. The aussies always have cools stuff. Same country that I got the rack boots from. Universal power steering rack boots. Made it easy.

Password Entry

They do not have a FOB with a password on it. You have to install a unit in the car, and the wireless fob integrates with that.

Transmission

I did a lot of stuff trying to fix my transmission. I replaced solenoids, and a accumulator piston. NEVER TOUCH A TRANNY UNLESS YOU WANT TO REBUILD IT. I ended up purchasing a new transmission from rockauto. Best thing ever. EM REMAN / TRANSMISSION AUTHORITY rebuilt tranny with all the little fixes they are supposed to have over the years. The thing works great and has a 100,000 mile warranty.

I mean, replace a Solenoid...if a code says its bad...but I would never do anything else. I swapped fluid at the same time as the solenoids and Accumulator Piston. It worked for about 1000 miles and something fucked up.

You read and read and read...people talked about replacing pistons like they are nothing. What they do not tell you is that the piston cover has a paper gasket that is huge and part of the tranny really. When you take it off, you rip and mess the gasket up. What a mess. Never again.

O well. The Tranny was having shift problems when I got it and the dealer lied to me about how many miles were on the Tranny.


Fuel Regulator

Car running like garbage? At least notice something?

Replace the fuel regulator, and the rubber boots on the hard line going to the pre vacuum source putting vacuum on it. Also put clamps on the tube going to the crank shaft vent tube from the air box.

My transmission was shifting weird, and cruise control did not work exactly as advertised...this fixed it...the thing runs completely different.

Here is a vid of some guy doing it: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oa3E7ClI3Bw

You need a Torx T30 Socket, with a U Joint extension. I also picked up a 8 Piece Right Angle Screwdriver from harbor freight along with the torx tips that fit it. Made it really easy. http://www.harborfreight.com/hand-tools/screwdrivers/8-piece-right-angle-screwdriver-92630.html


Shift Cable Repair

DIY Transmission Flush

You have to be careful doing this...look at threads where people are burning up their transmission.

Steering Wheel Controls

Looks like you can put them on

Sway bar links and bushings

Well I put on a full set of MAXX END LINKS just before I went on vac to NC and drove down and back and around the mountain roads must of put on about 1800 miles and the didn’t beleave how different the TB drove!!!! A must do for anyone! Eddie!

http://forums.trailvoy.com/showthread.php?t=37348&page=3

Change sway bar links and bushings.

MOOG has blue hard rubber bushings that seem cool.

Installing Cabin Air Filter

I would have to cut the hole for mine and find a place that has that cover with the bolt because Part Number: 52489412 is Discontinued, which is the cover.

52494070 is not direct fit…can be modded?

Get one from auto yard 02/03 TB

Bezel/Cover on Side of Seat for Power Control Switch

  • Really make sure the part matches if you ever order. They have different size switches that clip in and the cover has to match yours.

Checking and Cleaning Grounds

Other Info Copy and Pasted Just Because

Figured it out. There’s 3 silver bolts on the rear fuse panel. They seem to connect the window and lock switches. Found out by accident. Tightened all 3 and everything works flawlessly.


Not for nothing, but I just installed new (additional) grounds from the battery to the frame and frame to the engine block and noticed very similar results. The truck seems to run more smooth and shift much more consistently. I also have no more dimming headlight issues.

When I was cleaning my grounds in attempt to cure the inherent headlight dimming issue that plagues a lot of us, I was kind of shocked to see how the main ground cable was designed. Mine was quite corroded in the open area where the frame ground connection was made to the actual cable.

I tried cleaning this area with electrical parts cleaner to remove the corrosion and that helped (did not cure) for a month or so. Since that helped, I decided to just add some more grounds to the system to see the effect. To my surprise, I was met with a very sweet running truck! About four foot of 1ga wire and a bit of time is all it took.

Anyway, hope this helps someone else.

This inspires me to try something new. I decided to clean the battery terminals and the two wire ends under the fuse box cover behind the battery with MAF electronic cleaner. It looked dirty enough to warrant some attention. It was easy and accessible enough. Put it back together after spraying some red anti-corrosion protectant onto the contacts. Holy christ the truck felt like it woke up another notch.

For what its worth, mine was slamming into second gear so hard that it felt a little shit was kicking the back of my seat every shift from first. It was an input speed sensor from the the motor to inside the trans behind the pump. The trans had to be dropped to fix the problem. One of the techs mentioned a TSB for it but I didnt get the #. Hope this helps someone…

forgot to update. i cleaned the maf out a few weeks ago when i first reported this problem. havent had any problems since. so im assuming it was just a slight bit dirty.

Rear Spare Tire

  • Check it and Lubricate the mechanism.

Ignition Switch

My car was shutting off sometimes...

Leather Seats

Honestly I may keep the fabric at this point. But you can get leather seats from another car and put them in. You can also integrate heated:

Front Differential Fluid Change

I got the synthetic valvoline with the additive already in it.

Rear Differential Fluid Change

I do not have a drain plug. I have to take bolts out, etc. I do not know, I would still take the entire rear pan off..even though this guy says that it stupid. I would want to put a new gasket on. I cannot have this thing leaking.

Fuel Injector Cleaning

DIY

Stop Rust

  • POR-15
Retrieved from "https://wiki.hackspherelabs.com/index.php?title=2004_Trailblazer_LT_4.2L_L6&oldid=2000"